2015 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne

Context

This bottle was served blind at the beginning of a dinner by a particularly generous friend. The table went quiet after the first sniff. No one said the name, but everyone knew. That unmistakable Coche signature—flint, tension, and unrelenting presence—was already filling the glass. Once revealed, it set a high bar for the rest of the night. Few things in wine manage to surprise and confirm their greatness all at once. This did both.

Wine Information

• Producer: Domaine Coche-Dury

• Appellation: Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

• Vintage: 2015

• Grape: Chardonnay

• Alcohol: ~13.5%

• Farming: Sustainable/lutte raisonnée

• Barrel Regimen: 100% new oak, François Frères

Vintage Overview – 2015: A Golden Year That Needed Restraint

2015 was a warm, sunny vintage across Burgundy. For reds, it’s already confirmed as the best of the 2010s. For whites, it required careful picking and disciplined winemaking to avoid excess ripeness and flat acidity.

In the wrong hands, 2015 white Burgundies can feel broad or prematurely advanced. But top domaines found a way to retain structure and definition, crafting whites with density, precision, and long aging potential.

Compared to the opulence of 2009 or the angular cut of 2014, the 2015 vintage walks a tightrope between power and poise. Coche’s 2015 Corton-Charlemagne is one of the rare examples where that balance is achieved—a wine of mass and clarity.

Winemaker Profile – Raphaël Coche: The Reluctant Star

Raphaël Coche formally assumed winemaking responsibilities at Domaine Coche-Dury in 2010, following the retirement of his father, Jean-François Coche. Prior to this, Raphaël had been involved in the family estate since 1999, gaining hands-on experience under his father’s meticulous guidance. Jean-François, who took over from his own father, Georges Coche, in 1973, was instrumental in elevating the domaine’s reputation, particularly through his commitment to low yields, rigorous grape selection, and traditional winemaking techniques.

The domaine’s holdings expanded significantly in 1975 when Jean-François married Odile Dury, leading to the formation of Domaine Coche-Dury. Among their notable acquisitions was a parcel in the Grand Cru vineyard of Corton-Charlemagne, which they began leasing in 1986. This plot, located in the heart of the Le Charlemagne climat, spans approximately 0.34 hectares and was planted in 1960. The vines, now over six decades old, contribute to the wine’s remarkable concentration and complexity.

In 2012, the domaine expanded its Corton-Charlemagne holdings by acquiring additional plots, increasing their total area in this Grand Cru to about 0.88 hectares. Despite the increased size, production remains limited, with yields carefully controlled to maintain quality.

Tasting Notes

Appearance:

Pale gold with a silvery rim—surprisingly youthful for a 2015. Brilliant clarity and viscosity that clings to the glass.

Nose:

• Immediate reduction—gunflint and struck match

• Followed by lemon oil, crushed oyster shell, and white flowers

• Hints of almond skin, wet limestone, and smoke

Palate:

• Lemon curd, green apple skin, and grilled hazelnut

• Saline minerality coursing through a dense mid-palate

• Wood beautifully integrated—supportive, not dominant

Finish:

• Long, driven, and chalky

• A lingering impression of citrus pith and crushed stone

Certainly. Here’s a more concise and still analytical version of the Overall Impression section:

Overall Impression:

Atypical for 2015 in its restraint and structure. This is a mineral-driven, tightly coiled wine that favors precision over opulence. The acid and reductive grip frame its density well, suggesting long-term aging potential. Not fully expressive yet, but the components for greatness are clearly present.

Market Commentary

The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne was released at approximately €700–800 per bottle ex-cellar, depending on allocation and region. Within 18 months, prices doubled. Today, bottles trade in the $4,500-$6,000 USD range, with full original case provenance pushing higher.

While not as rare as Jayer or Liger-Belair, demand for Coche-Dury is equally fevered, especially for Grand Cru bottlings. Fakes are less common but rising.

From an investment angle, this wine still has modest upside. But from a drinking standpoint—it’s at a glorious early stage, and will hold or improve for another 10-15 years.

Wolf Call: Buy

There are wines that impress, and there are wines that shift your understanding of what’s possible with Chardonnay. This is the latter.

If you can find it—and afford it—don’t wait for an excuse. It is the excuse. It might be the best Corton-Charlemagne made in 2015, and maybe the best Coche since 2010. A rare case of stylistic clarity from a warm vintage, bottled by a master of restraint.

Buy if you find it below $4,500. Hold if you own it. Drink if you deserve it.