2017 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet

Context: A Quiet Standout at a Vertical Dinner

This bottle was opened as part of a vertical Domaine Leflaive tasting hosted privately by a collector friend in New York. We tasted multiple vintages across Bâtard, Bienvenues, and Chevalier, ranging from 2008 to 2020. The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet stood out—not for power or exoticism, but for its structure, linearity, and detail.

Wine Information

• Producer: Domaine Leflaive

• Wine: Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

• Vintage: 2017

• Appellation: Puligny-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC

• Alcohol: 13%

• Farming: Biodynamic (Demeter-certified)

• Barrel Regimen: ~20% new oak, aged 12 months in barrel + 6 months in tank

Vintage Overview: 2017 in White Burgundy

2017 was a relatively stress-free growing season. Yields were healthy, the weather was consistent, and there were no major disease or frost events in the Côte de Beaune. Ripening was steady, not rapid, which allowed for measured phenolic development and acidity retention.

Compared to 2014 (more tensile) or 2019/2020 (riper), 2017 offered balance and approachability without sacrificing aging potential. It was not a showy vintage, and therefore flew under the radar for many collectors at release.

Winemaker Profile: Pierre Vincent – The Technician in the Shadows

In 2017, Domaine Leflaive was under the direction of Pierre Vincent, a quiet but technically rigorous winemaker who stepped into one of Burgundy’s most scrutinized roles in 2017 following his departure from Domaine de la Vougeraie. At Leflaive, he replaced Eric Rémy and inherited the complex post–Anne-Claude era—where expectations were sky-high, but the internal systems were in flux.

Vincent didn’t arrive to reinvent the house style. He came to stabilize it.

He brought with him a reputation for meticulous cellar work, advanced viticultural protocols, and a deep understanding of biodynamics—crucial for Leflaive’s continued identity as one of the earliest adopters of Demeter-certified viticulture in Burgundy.

An Anecdote from Meursault:

In the early months of Vincent’s tenure, he was reportedly seen walking each grand cru parcel daily—alone, before sunrise—logging leaf angles, soil compaction, and vine posture.

It’s that mindset—equal parts observation and rigor—that characterizes the 2017 Chevalier. Nothing flashy. No overreach. Just precision, internal symmetry, and trust in the raw material.

While Vincent would later oversee riper vintages (like 2019 and 2020) with more expressive signatures, 2017 is arguably his clearest thesis statement: interpret, don’t interfere.

Tasting Notes (Served Blind, Then Revealed)

Appearance: Pale gold with slight green tinge. No premature oxidation noted.

Nose:

• Subdued but precise. Lemon pith, white peach, light floral tones.

• Secondary notes of oyster shell and wet chalk emerge with time in glass.

• No overt oak or leesy character—very restrained.

Palate:

• Medium-bodied, with excellent linear drive.

• Citrus, underripe stone fruit, and a distinct mineral salinity.

• Texture is firm and polished, with moderate concentration.

• Acidity is integrated but present—no lack of tension.

Finish:

• Long, clean, mineral-driven.

• No heat, no wood tannin. Leaves a subtle saline echo.

Overall Impression:

This is a wine about proportion and internal balance. Nothing is exaggerated. It does not reward speed tasting—it needs 20–30 minutes open to show nuance. The oak is barely perceptible, the fruit is precise rather than ripe, and the finish is controlled. Compared to the 2014 (which showed more chalk and zip) and 2019 (which was broader), the 2017 Chevalier was the most intellectually complete

Cellar Recommendation

Status: Still developing

Ideal Drinking Window: 2025–2030

This wine is not peaking yet. I would expect more aromatic lift and mid-palate expansion in 3–5 years. If opening now, give it a long decant and be patient.

Market Commentary

US Release Price (2019): ~$850

Current Market Range (May 2025): $1,250–$1,500

Auction Liquidity: Moderate. Appears regularly on Baghera, Acker, and Zachys lists but is not aggressively chased.

Speculation: Likely to appreciate steadily due to lower release volume and increasing scrutiny on Leflaive’s post-Anne-Claude vintages.

Notable: 2017 remains undervalued relative to 2014 and 2020, despite superior structure.

Wolf Call: Cellar

This is a wine for structured cellars, not spontaneous dinners as we did. Its complexity is not immediate—it develops slowly and rewards patience. This is what serious white Burgundy looks like when it’s not trying to entertain you.

In a few years, this bottle will be more expressive and better integrated. The upside is there—if you can wait.