A Conversation with Alex Gambal: Insights on M&A, Access, and Evolution in Burgundy

Alex Gambal's path to becoming a respected figure in Burgundy's wine industry is anything but conventional. Originally from Washington, D.C., Gambal transitioned from his family's real estate business to the world of viticulture in 1993. With no prior experience in winemaking, he moved to Beaune, France, immersing himself in the region's rich wine culture. Under the mentorship of renowned wine exporter Becky Wasserman, Gambal gained invaluable insights into Burgundy's intricate wine trade. By 1997, he had established Maison Alex Gambal, a boutique winery that would go on to produce wines from some of Burgundy's most esteemed vineyards, including the Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet.

Gambal’s memoir, Climbing the Vines in Burgundy, offers a candid and insightful look into the challenges of building a winery as an outsider in one of the world’s most tradition-bound wine regions. He unpacks the intricacies of French bureaucracy, the labyrinth of vineyard acquisition, and the cultural shifts required to truly integrate into Burgundy life. It’s a compelling read for anyone drawn to the intersection of entrepreneurship, culture, and the craft of winemaking. As someone deeply interested in all three, I devoured the book in under three days. Today, I’m incredibly fortunate to sit down with Alex to dig deeper into his journey and the lessons he’s learned along the way.

You’ve been on both sides of vineyard transactions in Burgundy. What’s the most misunderstood part of buying or selling land here?
The most misunderstood aspect of buying or selling land in Burgundy is how local it really is. As Warren Buffett once said, 'real estate business is great if you're local.' Relationships with notaries, brokers, and accountants are crucial. Outsiders underestimate the importance of these local connections and trust for successful vineyard acquisitions.

How did your first vineyard acquisition come together—and what did you learn from it that you didn’t expect?
My first vineyard purchase was some Bourgogne parcels, and the deal came through a relationship at the Burgundy Wine School. A friend mentioned her father was selling his domaine. What especially caught my eye was a small parcel near Volnay called 'Petit Pré,' next to one of Michel Lafarge's vineyards. For 100,000 bucks, I thought, let’s buy it and try to set it up! It was a valuable learning lesson to go through the process of setting up the various legal entities from a tax standpoint and a structural standpoint. It was a way to learn the numbers and see how it works, what the real costs are, and also being in a position that if a good piece of land came along later, I would have the organization done so I could quickly jump on it.

What were some of the biggest challenges navigating SAFER, inheritance laws, or co-ownership structures?
Navigating SAFER was nuanced, sometimes involving lease termination fees and co-ownership structures. Originally, SAFER aimed to help young winemakers and keep things local, but rising land prices made it challenging to keep that MO. Today, SAFER is less active in controlling prices, making it harder for young winemakers without significant backing.

What’s one transaction you passed on that still keeps you up at night—and why?
It was an opportunity involving multiple parcels in Morey-Saint-Denis. On my birthday, the owner and I shook hands on the deal, but my hesitation regarding these two tiny parcels of Clos Saint-Denis and Clos de la Roche – not enough to even make one barrel - prevented me from closing it on the spot. The next day, my notaire told me that he had decided to move forward with somebody else.  I still kick myself for not moving forward immediately.

As an American entering Burgundy in the 1990s, what were the biggest cultural or business barriers you had to overcome?
One of the biggest initial barriers I faced was not speaking fluent French. However, having spent over three years working exclusively on promoting Burgundy wines through Becky Wasserman’s company, I had already earned a degree of goodwill. That foundation, along with the fact that my ex-wife was fluent in French and my children were quickly immersed in the local language through school, helped ease the integration. We lived in the community, and all of my kids’ friends had winemakers for parents—I was surrounded by it. In many ways, the cultural and business challenge wasn’t about resistance, but about adapting to the pace. The French work hard, but they also value rest and take their holidays seriously. The rhythm of the day is different; work often doesn’t begin in earnest until 11 a.m., but stretches later into the evening, sometimes until 7 or 8 p.m.

What are a few wines—your own or others’—that have truly moved you?
The Saint-Aubin and Puligny Ensegnières wines I produced consistently punched above their weight, year after year.. I love my 2014 Ensegnières.

You know, when Philippe Engel made his wines—man, he was a maniac. Just pure fun. And his wines tasted like that—vibrant, alive, a little wild in the best way. Back then, we’d open Grand Crus on a random weeknight like they were Bourgogne. And when we finished a bottle, he’d disappear for a second and come back with more Grand Crus and say, “Come on, let’s drink some more.” God rest his soul.

Was there a single bottle—yours or someone else’s—that forced you to re-evaluate your assumptions about terroir, technique, or timing?
Not a single bottle, but a single vineyard.  Tasting Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé’s Musigny 1947 in 1993 was and will always be my most singular wine experience. But then, during the closing dinner after I sold my business, the Boissets poured a magnum of 1999 Musigny from their Domaine de la Vougeraie—and in an instant, I was transported back to the bottle of 1947 Musigny I’d had at the very beginning of my career. Despite being made fifty-two years apart, the two wines shared the same unmistakable DNA: opulent, with a soaring perfume that burst from the glass, and an elegance, power, and balance unlike anything else in the world. 

Is there an appellation in Burgundy you feel is still undervalued or overlooked?
I believe Ladoix and Marsannay still offer relative value and high-quality wines, though prices across Burgundy are continuing to rise sharply.

Is there still white space in Burgundy? If someone starts from scratch today, where do you think opportunity still lives—if anywhere?
Given today’s extreme land prices and barriers, I see limited opportunities for newcomers in Burgundy. I recommend exploring regions like the Mâconnais or Chinon in the Loire, where costs are lower but quality remains high.

You’ve witnessed climate shifts firsthand. How has your thinking changed around ripeness, picking dates, and what’s “typical” for a vintage?

Climate change played a major role in my decision to step away from winemaking. By the late 2010s, I was approaching 60, and the physical and emotional toll of chasing the weather year after year was becoming too much. Harvests were coming earlier and earlier—sometimes in August—and the traditional markers of ripeness were shifting. Sugar levels spiked while phenolic maturity lagged behind, forcing constant recalibration in the vineyard and the cellar. I knew that adapting to these new realities would require bold thinking: rethinking canopy management, experimenting with drought-resistant rootstocks, exploring new clones or training systems—things that demand time, energy, and a fresh perspective. I have faith that the next generation of growers will rise to that challenge, and that in twenty years, the vineyards may well be healthier and more resilient than they are today. But for me, I realized I didn’t have another two decades of that fight left in me. It was time to hand the reins to those ready to carry it forward.

As Alex reflects on a career shaped by intuition, relationships, and resilience, it’s clear that his journey in Burgundy was never just about wine—it was about building a life rooted in a place he came to love deeply. That chapter is now turning its page. For those inspired by Alex’s story and drawn to the rhythms of Burgundy life, there’s a rare opportunity to inhabit that legacy in a tangible way.

Alex’s own home in Baubigny—a serene hilltop village just minutes from Meursault—is currently for sale. The property features a beautifully restored stone house with sweeping vineyard views, terraced gardens, and a charming guest cottage. It’s everything you’d want in a Burgundian retreat. You can learn more about the listing here.