- Wolf of Burgundy
- Posts
- Montrachet at €56 Million per Hectare: Inside the Parcel That Quietly Changed Hands
Montrachet at €56 Million per Hectare: Inside the Parcel That Quietly Changed Hands
An examination of a rare parcel in Puligny-Montrachet, the historical roots of its ownership, and what the numbers reveal about the financial realities of the world’s most coveted white wine vineyard
A Rare Appearance on the Public Record
In early 2026, a formal listing circulated through Burgundy announcing the proposed sale of 7.73 ares of Montrachet Grand Cru in the commune of Puligny-Montrachet. The indicative price was €4,334,580, excluding fees and transaction costs. On a per-hectare basis, that equates to approximately €56 million.
Even by the standards of Burgundy, where land rarely trades and prices have risen steadily for two decades, this was a notable figure. Montrachet spans less than eight hectares in total, divided between Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. Ownership is fragmented but highly concentrated among a small number of historic estates, including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leflaive, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, and Domaine Ramonet. Parcels do not typically surface publicly. When they change hands, it is often through inheritance restructuring or quiet bilateral agreements.
The dossier described two cadastral plots totaling 0.0773 hectares, fully planted to Chardonnay and located squarely within the AOC Montrachet boundary. There were no buildings attached to the property. The entire surface was under lease, and any purchaser would be required to maintain the existing fermier, subject to the tenant’s approval.
The combination of a public filing, a price north of €4.3 million for less than a tenth of a hectare, and a leased parcel immediately raised questions within the region.
The Question of the Seller
The more intriguing aspect of the transaction was not the valuation but the identity of the seller. The cadastral references and vineyard map pointed toward holdings historically associated with the Ramonet family. That immediately narrowed the field. The Ramonet name has been intertwined with Montrachet since the early twentieth century, when Pierre Ramonet began assembling parcels during the interwar period and the years that followed. At the time, acquisitions were agricultural decisions rather than financial maneuvers. The global prestige and capital intensity that define today’s Burgundy had not yet taken shape.
Over subsequent generations, like many Burgundian families, the Ramonet holdings were divided among heirs. Fragmentation across branches of a family is common, particularly in vineyards of this stature. The appearance of a Ramonet-linked parcel on a public listing therefore suggested several possibilities: inheritance, estate restructuring, or liquidity needs.
The idea that a long-established family might reduce its exposure to Montrachet would have been noteworthy. The parcel represented only a fraction of the Ramonet footprint in Montrachet, and additional holdings remain under the family’s control.
The Economics Behind the Headline Number
To assess whether €56 million per hectare is defensible, one must look at both historical pricing trends and production capacity.
In the 1990s, elite grand cru vineyards in the Côte de Beaune traded in the low single-digit millions of euros per hectare. By the early 2000s, leading white sites were often valued between €5 and €8 million. The 2010s marked a structural shift as Burgundy’s global demand intensified, allocations tightened, and land became recognized not merely as agricultural property but as a long-duration prestige asset. By the late 2010s and early 2020s, informed observers cited valuations well above €30 million per hectare for Montrachet. Against that backdrop, €56 million represents a continuation of a steep upward trajectory rather than a sudden aberration.
Still, agricultural yield remains the baseline constraint. In practice, effective yields in Montrachet often sit closer to 25–30 hectoliters per hectare once quality selection and vintage variability are factored in. Using a midpoint of 27.5 hl/ha, one hectare would produce approximately 3,667 liters of wine annually, equivalent to roughly 4,889 bottles (at 0.75 liters per bottle).
Applied proportionally to 0.0773 hectares, the parcel would generate approximately:
4,889 bottles × 0.0773 ≈ 378 bottles per year.
Ramonet’s Montrachet frequently trades around €3,000 per bottle on the secondary market, depending on vintage and provenance. Using €3,000 as a reference price, the gross annual revenue attributable to this parcel would approximate:
378 bottles × €3,000 ≈ €1,134,000 per year.
Compared to the €4,334,580 purchase price, a purely arithmetic gross-revenue comparison suggests a theoretical payback period of just under four years.
This simplified calculation excludes critical variables: ex-cellar pricing is typically below secondary market values; production costs, vineyard management, élevage, taxes, and distribution margins materially reduce net income; and the time value of capital must be considered. Nonetheless, the exercise demonstrates that at current market pricing levels, the revenue-generating capacity of Montrachet is sufficiently high to support extraordinary land valuations when evaluated over a long horizon.
The Structure of the Transfer
The key detail lay in the lease. The parcel was fully rented at the time of sale, and the conditions required the buyer to maintain the existing fermier. In Burgundy, long-term leases can effectively separate operational control from land ownership. When the tenant is already farming the vines, acquiring the underlying land is often a matter of time.
Speculation circulated as to whether an outside investor might attempt to acquire the parcel, valuing the prestige of ownership even without immediate operational control.
Only after the candidacy period closed did the structure become clear. The seller traced to Ramonet family holdings. The buyer was the Ramonet family member who had already been leasing and farming the parcel.
Continuity Disguised as Change
The transaction therefore represents consolidation rather than divestment. Ownership shifted within the family at a documented valuation reflecting current market benchmarks, but control of the land never left the Ramonet sphere.
In that sense, the public listing created intrigue, yet the outcome was consistent with Burgundy’s long-standing pattern. Montrachet may appear on official filings, complete with eight-figure hectare valuations and formal candidacy deadlines, but the most coveted ground in the Côte de Beaune tends to remain where it has long been held: within families that view it not as a tradable commodity, but as a generational asset whose value is measured in decades rather than years.